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Like a wild northern child, Hokkaido tops Japan geographically to offer visitors outstanding skiing, along with geothermal springs and spectacular seasonal scenery to explore. Japan’s second largest and least developed island has plenty for nature lovers and, with four distinct seasons, there is always a reason to return.
In spring cherry blossoms bloom and there’s a month-long tulip festival, Kamiyubetsu tulip matsuri, in May; summer sees the island’s pleasant climate and green wilderness attract Japanese who want to escape the warm, humid weather of southern areas; in autumn the leaf fall in Hokkaido is dramatic around mid-October which is also a great month to go hiking through the national parks. It is also the time for Hokkaido’s largest food festival, the Sapporo Autumn Fest, offering a chance to taste your way around the region’s local specialities.
In winter, moisture from the Sea of Japan hits cold winds from Siberia to create the ultimate dry fluffy snow, making Hokkaido one of the best powder skiing destinations in the world. There are many ways to enjoy winter in the region, including diving under drift ice for extreme thrill-seekers, but you don’t have to go far outside your comfort zone for a fun adventure in this snowy wonderland.
1. Learn the skills of a ninja
Like the covert actions of the ninja in the times of the feudal lords, the location of the Ninja Do training hall is kept secret to confuse their enemies. ‘Trainees’ meet at the Sapporo Tourist Information Centre to be transported to the destination and we arrive kerbside to be greeted by a man dressed head-to-toe in black and ushered into an unmarked building, straight down the stairs to a basement door with a large lock on the outside.
The moves are all very mysterious and slightly dramatic, like we are extras in an episode of Monkey Magic (a classic Japanese television series from the 1970s and ’80 shown alongside The Goodies and Roger Ramjet).
First there’s a lot of clothing to put on and tie up. Pants, top, headband and wrist guards and then, at least, I looked like a ninja! All I needed was a sword, but first I had to learn to walk silently and swiftly like a ninja, blow a dart into a target (fail), throw a ninja star into a target (fail) and escape from my enemies through hidden doors (pass).
When I finally got my hands on a sword, I was schooled on drawing it from its sheath and standing ready to pounce. My tip is to select a sword that is shorter, not longer than your arms!
2. Fish on a frozen river
Smelt fishing is a popular pastime in Sapporo during winter when the Barato River ices over. Visitors can hire snow pants, boots and fishing gear. Tents and chairs are provided next to the ice holes to make it quite cosy but you do need to rug up for this one.
Although smelt fishing is not easy at first, once you get the hang of baiting the rods with the tiny grubs and lowering the bait to the right level in the water it’s quite rewarding. Even better, the fishing guides will cook your catch tempura style at the end of the session, so there’s a mini fish feast for all.
3. Take a snowmobile tour
Snowmobile Land Sapporo takes groups of riders out into the mountainous forest for an hour to experience real snow wilderness. I felt confident handling the snowmobile, but a practice session around a curvy course helped hone my cornering skills. It is an easy route even for novices as the group departs and continues in one long follow-the-leader line.
Driving through the snow while large, fat flakes drift down from above is exhilarating. Wearing the snow pants, boots, jacket and helmet provided, and with heat pads in my pockets, I felt invincible against the cold. Afterwards, we cooked lunch on a barbecue outside a real igloo (there’s an option to cook inside too).
4. Discover Ramen Alley
After a day out in the snow and ice, nothing warms your bones like a large bowl of ramen, the soup-based Japanese dish with noodles and different toppings which often comes with side dishes such as gyoza (dumplings).
Sapporo’s Ramen Yokocho is a narrow, covered alleyway which has grown from seven ramen shops in 1951 to 17 shops today. Each restaurant has its menu in the window and you can see the chefs inside preparing the food.
Sapporo is the birthplace of miso ramen, but a seafood broth is also very popular. Not only is the soup filled with flavour and freshly made but it is also reasonably priced. I paid just over $12 for a big bowl of soup and a side of pot sticker dumplings.
Seating is at a long narrow bench right in front of the ‘kitchen’ so you can see everything the chef does.
5. Climb an ice castle
The Sapporo Snow Festival each February is a spectacular sight of hundreds of elaborate ice sculptures, seen by millions of visitors to the city’s Odori Park every year, but just out of town the smaller scale Chitose and Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival also sees a magical kingdom of sculptures created on the lake banks by spraying water from the second deepest lake in Japan (363 metres). It’s cold, think -8°Celsius, as you walk through ice tunnels and climb ice stairs to the top of the ice castle. There is also an ice rink and a slide which are obvious favourites with excited children.
During the day the ice festival creations glisten with a light blue colour in the sunlight. At night coloured lights turn the whole festival into a winter wonderland. The festival has an eating area, but there are plenty of places to get a bite in the village before you walk down the hill to the lake.
The festival at the lake is on from late January to mid-February each year and takes place about 40 minutes' drive from Sapporo. On weekends and holidays, you also may see fireworks or a Japanese taiko drumming performance. There are also hot springs nearby open to daytime visitors.
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